Wanderung 30

We steamed into the Firth of Clyde just as the sun was rising, which is a beautiful way to start one's day!

Having seen Glasgow on our Spring voyage over to Southampton, we elected this time to walk around the actual port city of Greenock where our ship was moored. But when we checked at the information desk on the dock for a map and a walking tour of the Greenock, which they gave us, they told us also about a free local tour that included the first steamship, the Comet, which I wanted to see, and the local castle, called Newark castle. That sounded good and we signed up and paid the entrance fee for the castle part of the tour, about $4 each. The tour left at 9:30, and was run by volunteers using a local 30-passenger bus, which was much handier than a full-sized bus for negotiating the narrow streets of Greenock.

Our first stop was the Comet, and I learned it was a faithful reproduction produced in 1994 of the original steamship built in 1812. The steam engine was a Watt engine such as used in the mines that was adapted to power 4 paddle wheels, but it produced just 4-5 horsepower! However, that seemed to be sufficient to power the small ship across the River Clyde so that people could stay at the fancy hotel on the opposite shore, and even enough power to steam up the Clyde to Glasgow on a regular schedule.

The Comet made a profit and stayed in business for many years, in contrast to Fulton's steamboat, which although it worked, resulted in bankruptcy. So more accurrately the Comet was the first profitable and pactical steamboat, at least after they extended it by 40 feet and removed the rear set of paddle wheels, which were non-functional.

Our next stop was Newark Castle, which started out in the 1400s as one of those fortified square stone towers like we saw in Ireland on Wanderung 24. Newark Castle was turned into a residence over the next few centuries as the development of canons ultimately made the old stone fortresses militarily useless, and it was gradually extended to create a more palatial living space.

Thus, the interior of Newark Castle varied from the rather grim, rough-hewn rock of the original square-tower fortress to the palatial Great Hall in the newest section. The lowest level of the tower was a barrel-roofed vault used for storage, and like some of the tower forts we had seen in Ireland the floors of some levels had either been removed or fallen in over the centuries. But the stone spiral staircase leading up to the roof and the roof itself were still intact, so I climbed up on top to get a better view and some nicer pictures.

 

The Great Hall in the newest section of the castle looked, by comparison, much more luxurious as it had bigger windows, higher ceilings, and plastered walls. But the walls were still pure stone and it must have been chilly in Winter! Curiously, the huge wooden beams supporting the ceiling were clearly "used" timbers as they had random notches and extraneous holes drilled into them in odd places. Apparently, all the local trees had been cut down to build ships so that there was a lumber shortage and all available pieces were carefully re-used. Who knew?

The story of the last laird of the castle was, however, quite sad. It seems the husband was a wife-beater who almost killed his wife. After the last such beating, she slowly recovered and was spririted out of the castle by friends in order to escape her husband. She ultimately filed for divorce, an almost unheard-of procedure back in the 1600s, and she might well have won her case, but the laird conveniently died before the final judgement could be rendered, thus giving him an "easy exit". Poor lady!

The River Clyde had once been lined with shipyards, but all of them have long since gone out of business except, coincidentally, the one shipyard right beside Newark Castle. It was nice that someone was investing money to renovate that shipyard and keep at least a remnant of that piece of Greenock's history alive, but it did obscure the castle!

Our tour bus driver agreed to let us off in the middle of the city, so after the tour we took the opportunity to walk down to the River Clyde to look at a navy memorial and the old customs house on the shoreline.

After lunch back on the ship, we ventured out on shore once more that afternoon to find a usable Wifi hotspot, in which we were unsuccessful, and to do some shopping, in which we were more successful. At the Aldi just outside the port area, we picked up a beer, two bottles of wine, snacks, and the "Find Of The Day"---> a battery-powered radio-signal-doorbell and chime set that we really needed back at home, and it only cost 6 pounds (about $10)! Ultimately, the doorbell set successfuly survived our journey back and was installed at home where it works to this day.

Before we left the dock that evening, there was a "Scottish Highlight Show" in the Princess Theater complete with bagpipes, dancing, singing, and even a violin player. It was fun to see some very nice, authentic music and dancing.

As our ship steamed back down the River Clyde that evening, we had another fine meal in the dining room and for dessert our headwaiter George made a delicious Cherries Jubilee.