Wanderung 24

Spring Fling

From March to May 2011

Saturday April 23rd: Aran Islands, Ireland

Bob:

Right after breakfast we drove maybe 15 kilometers West to Rossaveel and embarked on the ferry over to the largest of the Aran Islands, Innishmor (Island Motto: There's "mor" to see in Innishmor!). Since we once again had gorgeous, sunny weather, Monika and I sat on the open, upper deck of the ferry to enjoy the view and take the occasional picture.

Rounding a large, solid stone breakwater, our ferry docked at a brand new wharf that indeed looked like it was still being finished. All kinds of vendors and vehicles were waiting for us on the dock including horse-drawn carriages! Unless you want to walk about 10 miles, there are basically 3 ways to see Innishmor: by bicycle, by minibus, or by a variety of two-wheeled horse-drawn carriage that I last saw on the BBC's "The Irish R.M." TV series.

Monika:

We had missed the Aran Islands the last time we were in Ireland (Wanderung 9), so that was a "must do" for this time around. The ferry left about 15 km West of our B&B at Rossaveel at 10:30 a.m., so we had a leisurely breakfast and then drove there. When we arrived, the car park was already starting to fill up and while Bob and Lois gathered our stuff, I stood in line to purchase the ferry tickets. They had two ferries moored together and we were told to walk through to the second one. We first thought of sitting downstairs in warm comfort, but then Bob and I went to the top outside, after all it was brilliant sunshine. Lois decided to stay indoors. The ferry left as soon as it was filled. So we left a little early.

The trip over was a lot of fun. Not too cold, just a little rocky and otherwise just fun. Bob took pictures as we approached Innishmor, the largest of the Aran Islands.

Bob:

Both the minibus and bicycle rental cost 10 Euro, so we opted for the minibus in part to get the guided tour that was included. "Rory", our driver, had the largest of the mini buses and a very clever business model. He drove us up to Dun Aengus, the major tourist destination on the island, where we had a total of 2 hours to walk and have lunch whilst he returned to the harbor to get yet another load of tourists. After about 2 hours, he let the second group OUT at Dun Aengus when he picked our first group back UP, and then our group completed its tour of the island. After dropping us off back at the port, he no doubt returned to the fort to pick up his second group and give them the final part of their tour. By overlapping tour groups in this manner, Rory could squeeze in two groups of tourists per day. Slick!

Monika:

We had read about minibus tours around the island and that seemed to be an ideal way to see the island for the three of us; if it had just been Bob and myself, we might have rented bicycles. Our driver gave us a running commentary on what we were seeing , for instance the ruins of a protestant church built for the English soldiers, or a small thatched roof cottage built with only two windows, because more windows would mean higher taxes.

Bob:

The minibus was, of course, a faster way for us to reach Dun Aengus than either taking the horse carts or pedaling a rental bicycle, so the extensive bicycle parking lot at Dun Aengus was nearly empty when we arrived. Conversely, when we departed 2 hours later that lot had at least several hundred bicycles in it and there was a line of horse drawn carts out front! We were glad for the whole 2 hours as that let us take our time on the climb up to the top of that 3000 year old fort. Dun Aengus, or in Gaelic "Dun Aonghasa" is a series of concentric rings of stone situated at the edge of the cliff, about 400 feet or so above the sea. But that was a very sheer,straight down type of cliff and there were NO safety railings.

Monika:

We stopped at the entrance to the big 3000 year old semi-circular stone fort at the top of the cliff and were given 2 hours to take a look, have lunch, and do some shopping. Of course, we all wanted to see the fort. This involved a 20 minute walk, mainly uphill with the last part rather straight uphill. On the way up, we had some spectacular views of the cliffs that line the whole south side of the island.

Lois kept up very well and we all were rewarded with a beautiful fort that was truly situated at the edge of the cliff. And although this is a major tourist attraction, there was no fence or railing at the edge of the cliff. If you stepped too far, you would be gone. I, of course, tried to get as close as possible to the edge to take some good pictures, and Bob was worried enough to pull me back.

Bob:

Taking our time we all, including Lois, managed to walk the at times rather steep and rocky trail all the way to the top. On the way, I took this rather spectacular picture of the cliffs farther on with the waves crashing into them, although at the time the sun was in my eyes and I couldn't see it very well at all. Up on top, I had to worry about Monika trying to get as close to the cliff as possible to take a picture down the side of it. I kept hold of the straps of her backpack as she leaned out over the side of the cliff but I wasn't sure those straps would hold her weight!. Note: no railing or anything at the side of the cliff, so Rowan should not be allowed to roam freely and really not Monika either.

Monika:

From the outer fort, we stepped into the inner fort. The stone palisade went from one side of the cliff in a semicircle around to the other side. And on the open side was a cliff with a sheer drop-off, just waiting for some too curious tourist to make a wrong step. I would not want to be up here with my grandchildren at their present ages (5, 3, and 1 and a half). Maybe in about 20 years or so.... But we did have a great time.


 

Bob:

The innermost ring of the old fortress was a fairly large but empty keep of some kind with a carpet of the thick, green Irish grass that I had remarked on during our previous visit to Ireland. The back of the fort was simply a straight drop down the cliffs. That open back gave us fantastic views out over the Atlantic Ocean and down along the coasts on either side of us. Going back down the path to the Visitor's Center was not as strenuous as going up, but it was very difficult footing and I had to help Lois so that none of us ended up with a twisted ankle.

Monika:

Walking back down was almost more strenuous than going up and Bob helped Lois, so that she would not fall. At the entrance to the park was a small coffee shop where we had a fast sandwich and scone which made a satisfactory lunch. We also did some shopping in the little shops, a little doll for me and a sweater for Lois and postcards for Bob.

Bob:

Continuing our circle drive around the Innishmor Island with Rory, we saw some of the old thatched roof houses and the ruins of an old church with the grave of Saint Tom in the back of the cemetery (Giving me the hope that somewhere I will find a Saint Bob I can pray to!).

Monika:

The minibus meanwhile had picked up another load of tourists and dropped them off before we got back on for the rest of our tour. We stopped at an old fallen-in church and monastery, which also was the burial ground for a few saints.

Bob:

Back along the coast we saw a seal colony with seals basking in the sun on the rocky shoals just offshore. We even saw some folks in bathing suits on the beach, but they seemed to stay well back away from the water. Probably it was ice cold that early in the season. After we were deposited back at the port at the end of our tour, Monika and I walked a short ways up the hill to the Spar store to buy some groceries for our evening meal.

Monika:

Our last stop was a seal colony, and since it was low tide, the seals were out on the rocks sunning themselves. We had lots of fun watching them. We got back to the little town from where the ferry left by about 3 and had two hours before the ferry was scheduled to leave. So Bob and I decided to go the SPAR store to buy a few things for our evening meal.

Bob:

Then Monika and Lois went shopping in the nearby stores while ญญญญญญญญญญI just sat enjoyed the view of an old fishing boat that looked as if it had sunk at its moorings against the wharf. The shopping expedition was successful as Lois found a nice sweater at the Aran sweater shop, and Monika found another nice Irish doll to add to her collection.ญญญญญญญญ

Monika:

Then Lois and I went into some more gift shop for some more extensive shopping. Lois found a very pretty necklace for Carrie whose birthday was coming up, and I found another somewhat bigger doll, and on sale no less! How could I resist? Bob then went to photograph some boats and such while Lois and I sat and rested.


 

Bob:

Taking the 5:00 p.m. ferry back to the mainland, we drove another half an hour to arrive back at our B&B. So it was already fairly late by the time we had our evening snack, after which we settled in for the night. Altogether it had been a really wonderful day.

Monika:

We then slowly meandered to the ferry dock. This time they had three ferries moored together and were starting to load the first one around 4:30. By 4:45 our ferry was full and we were off again. The sun was still shining and Bob and I enjoyed another beautiful ferry trip out on the deck.

When we got home, we all were too tired to do more than have our evening meal, check the internet and read.


 

Copyright 2011 by R. W. Holt and E. M. Holt
Index
Prolog Map of Transatlantic Cruise Map of Drive in Ireland Epilog

March 2011
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30 31
April 2011
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
May 2011
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19 20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
29 30 31

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