Wanderung 17

No Rain in Spain, not even on the Plain!

April-May 2008

Tuesday April 29th 2008

Granada - the Alhambra: the Nasrid Palace.

Bob:

Seeing the absolutely gorgeous and exquisite Nasrid Palace took another 1.5 hours (we were really lucky there--usually they push you through it in just 30 minutes). It's hard to describe the graceful and intricate Moorish architecture. Like the Real Alcazar that we toured during Wanderung 14, you should really carefully look at the floors, the walls and doors, and the ceilings. Each part is exquisitely done and integrated into an aesthetic whole that is simply breathtaking.

The floors have patterned tiles combined with decorative, graceful pools and small fountains. The effect is quite calming and relaxing if you take the time to amble along and enjoy the real impact intended by the architects. That was one point where I was glad I was not being towed along in a tour group or being pushed along by the museum guards, who thankfully let us alone (my exaggerated limp and loud groaning may have kept them off our back, and since we had been on our feet almost twelve hours, it all came very naturally!).

Monika:

Beyond a general "tickets good after 2PM" the only part that is timed rather rigourously is the entrance to the Nasrid Palace the jewel of the Alhambra. Ours were for 6:30 probably one of the latest times since the whole place closes at 8PM. But this also gave us time to linger and take pictures to our hearts content or until the batteries ran out.


 


 

Bob:

Many of the walls also had tile patterns, but only up to about waist level. Above that they were carved in intricate patterns and traceries of stone. The stone latticework was so fine that I was amazed that it had withstood the centuries mostly intact. Sunlight was filtering through some of those stone lattice windows and making intricate patterns of light and dark on the floors below. How beautiful. The doorways were also very pretty and featured those curious Moorish arches that expand out from the sides a bit before they come together at the top, resembling an onion but much more beautiful!

Some of the ceilings were wood, both carved and inlaid with lighter pieces that might have been ivory or mother-of-pearl. Other ceilings were, however, completely formed of carved stone patterns and spikes. The total effect was curiously a lot like stalactites in a small cave or cavern, except that the patterns were much more regular and uniform than you would find in a natural cavern. That reflected their human rather than natural construction, but I still felt in those rooms like I was in a cool, quiet grotto or cave. Very relaxing.

Monika:

The palace is really all you expect. Great halls, beautiful courtyards, doorways with arches and beautiful ceilings. Bob and I just slowly wandered through it all. At some places, we used the timer and put our cameras on the floor to get pictures of the magnificent ceilings. At other places we marvelled at the window lattices that left interesting patterns of sunlight and shadow on the floor.


 


 

Bob:

The only thing that even comes close to my experience in the Alhambra is the Real Alcazar we visited in Seville. Comparing the two, I would say that with the exception of the church and Carlos V's palace, the Alhambra is much more architecturally uniform than is the Real Alcazar. The Real Alcazar, conversely, has more variety in styles because some rooms are more Moorish while other rooms are distinctly Spanish in design and decor. The Real Alczar felt "prettier", but I think that was simply due to my background in Western culture and the fact that many elements in the Real Alcazar were expressions of basic Western culture. The Alhambra, however, was much more harmonious. The Eastern-style architecture was consistent so that you had none of the jarring changes when walking from room to room that I had experienced in the Real Alcazar. Overall, the entire effect of the Alhambra was more serene and relaxed, possibly because it did not have some of the more ostentatious "Royal" aspects of the Real Alcazar. I guess what I'm saying is that if you get to Spain you really ought to see both of these palaces if you possibly can.

Monika:

We let tour group after tour group pass us, while we waited for unoccupied rooms to take pictures. No guard or tour guide ever hurried us. Yes, I know, you supposedly are supposed to go throught the Palace in 30 minutes. Well it took us almost 90 minutes and we had just a little time left over for the gardens where we saw a magnificent with a beautiful pool for reflection pictures. By now it was eight and still light.


 


 


 

Bob:

We had only had about two hours in the Real Alcazar, so it was wonderful to be able to wander through the three main sections of the Alhambra completely at our leisure. Other various nooks and crannies of the palace complex like the church, some old baths, and even taking pictures in the gift shop took all together another hour, so all together we were there from 3 p.m. until they chased us out when the place closed at 8 p.m. On the way down the hill we came across the remains of an old Moorish gate just standing in the forest on the side of the hill. Those ruins gave us some idea of what the entire palace would have looked like if the Spanish kings had not taken over the palace and at least invested the time and effort to preserve most of it.

Footsore and weary, we walked back downhill out of the palace grounds (the tourist buses quit running at 5:00 p.m.), and ran across a shop selling articles made by local craftsmen. We found ceramic numbers for our house and an "H" "O" "L" and "T" to put above the numbers. Monika also found a thimble, a refrigerator magnet, and some coasters in a Moorish pattern. I found a small serving tray with a pattern that matched the coasters, so I added that to our booty and we hauled it all back to our hotel. It was already 9:00 p.m., so we just had a light snack and put our throbbing feet up until it was time to turn in for the night.

Monika:

We finally left the area and took the most direct route back down, to be surprised by another beautiful moorish gate and a nice statue of a guy with a hound. When we finally got back into town, we stopped at an artsy type store. What had attracted us were numbered and lettered tiles that would look great over our door. So we picked out 10841 and HOLT and went inside. Inside we found magnificent inlaid woodworks. Bob had his eyes on a 900 Euro chess set with the Christians fighting the Saracens. But we decided, we better stick to what we can transport home and got a beautiful wooden tray and coasters, as well as the obligatory thimble and magnet.

After this we just limped home for a small snack and bed.


 

Click on the "Alcazaba", "Generalife", and "Nasrid Palace" links on the line below to see our visit to each part the Alhambra:

Alcazaba Generalife Nasrid Palace

Copyright 2008 by R. W. Holt and E. M. Holt
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